by MulletHopper, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, August 10, 2006
I was on a ten day trip to Nicaragua, staying with JJ Yemma at his surf camp at Popoyo. Within a ten minute drive from the camp there are several different waves ranging from a reef point to beach breaks. All week long we had been surfing the reef point as well as some of the punchy beach breaks. Outside of the main break is an outer reef that breaks like pipeline/ Chopes/ the box. The last day of the trip we decided to surf it.
 Now the break is a little less than a 1/2 mile out. The waves come in from deep water and break over a waist deep rock reef. Its only surf-able on high tide because the reef is exposed on all other tides.
We get out there after a 30 minute paddle filled, my heart was pumping and my knuckles white. When sitting on the peak your feet actually touch the reef, that’s how shallow it is. When surfing big waves you need to either go or not go. There is no in between. Hesitation is Devastation! I was on that day. I caught about 9 or 10 bombs with no problem.
My problems didn’t arise until I got caught inside.
I found myself paddling back out with a a four wave set coming right for me. I wasn’t able to get to the channel and you can’t duck-dive, the water was only waist deep. So I took my beatings. The wave was so powerful I thought it was going to rip my limbs off of my torso. I was sucked over the reef for about 30 yards. Fortunately only minor abrasions, but the power that I felt gave me a whole new respect for big wave surfing.
Eventually the waves pushed me into the channel where I was safe. I said a little prayer and went in. I felt lucky to be alive.
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