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A Quote from the great Nat Young out of 1998’s: “Nat’s Nat and that’s that.” |
Quote courtesy of surfnstalk, as posted on NYNJSurf.com.
“I honestly can’t remember the first time I rode a wave. I suppose it was while playing in the shore break and I must have come to it so gradually that the memory has faded. It was probably inevitable that i’d learned to surf, for the ocean was my backyard. It was where i played every day from one season to the next and riding waves was a part of it. I’m sure it’s the same for anyone who grows up in close proximity to the sea…..it becomes your home, your mother, the very essence of life.”
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