by little_nasty, as passed on to him, and to all of us by the people of Hawai'i
Hawaiian Surf Chant
Ina`a `ohe nalu, a laila aku i kai, penei e hea ai:
(If there is no surf, invoke seaward in the following manner:)
Kumai! Kumai! Ka nalu nui mai Kahiki mai,
Arise! Arise, you great surfs from Kahiki, The powerful curling waves.
Alo po`i pu! Ku mai ka pohuehue,
Arise with pohuehue.
Hu! Kai ko`o loa.
Well up, long raging surf.
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by MulletHopper, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, August 10, 2006
I was on a ten day trip to Nicaragua, staying with JJ Yemma at his surf camp at Popoyo. Within a ten minute drive from the camp there are several different waves ranging from a reef point to beach breaks. All week long we had been surfing the reef point as well as some of the punchy beach breaks. Outside of the main break is an outer reef that breaks like pipeline/ Chopes/ the box. The last day of the trip we decided to surf it.
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Quote courtesy of surfnstalk, as posted on NYNJSurf.com.
“I honestly can’t remember the first time I rode a wave. I suppose it was while playing in the shore break and I must have come to it so gradually that the memory has faded. It was probably inevitable that i’d learned to surf, for the ocean was my backyard. It was where i played every day from one season to the next and riding waves was a part of it. I’m sure it’s the same for anyone who grows up in close proximity to the sea…..it becomes your home, your mother, the very essence of life.”
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Quote courtesy of surfnstalk, as posted on NYNJSurf.com.
“But a diversion the most common is upon the water, where there is a very great sea, and surf breaking on the shore. The men sometimes 20 or 30 go without the swell of the surf, & lay themselves flat upon an oval piece of plank about their size and breadth, they keep their legs close on top of it, & their arms are us’d to guide the plank, they wait the time of the greatest swell that sets on shore, & altogether push forward with their arms to keep on it’s top, it sends them in with a most astonishing velocity, & the great art is to guide the plank so as always to keep it in a proper direction on the top of the swell…..”
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